Abby,
> 1- I can get a list of open ports?
Hmm, you are running in server only mode and you have another gateway (router ? PC running NAT software ? firewall-cum-router ?) which links you to the internet.
Depending on what sort of router you are using, you may or may not use Scott's suggestion of going to
www.grc.com to check for open ports as the machine you are checking is very likely to be the router / gateway and NOT the ESSG. If the ESSG is sitting behind a firewall/router/NAT gateway then you will need port scanning software which you can run locally on the LAN. (Sorry, can't think of any as I've not personnaly used them but know about them - search
www.davecentral.com or cnet.com).
> 2- how to see in SMTP or POP3 are enabled/disabled
The fact that your mail clients are not reporting ANY errors implies that the services are running (they might not be working the way you expect but they are there and accepting connections).
> 3- how to get to the configuration mode ie ( Alt+F2 .... etc.)
Let's troubleshoot a little first.
Do this from the console of the ESSG (ie. the actual K/B and Monitor attached to the ESSG - unless you have access via Telnet or ssh but I won't get into that right now). Hit Alt-F2 and you should get a login prompt. Login with the username 'root' (without quotes) and the password is the same password you use to get into the e-smith manager from a web browser. Once logged in, type in :-
cd /var/log
This puts you into the log directory. The log file to examine is maillog. To view the last few lines in the log, type :-
tailf maillog
You could view the whole maillog file from the top, one screen at a time with the cat command :-
cat maillog | more
Examine the entries in maillog and post a snippet of it for us to have a look to see if anyone can help.
Unfortunately, I'll have to leave it here as I've had a long day and need to catch some ZZZs. I'll follow up again when next the sun shines !

Good luck !
Kelvin